
Phewa Lake, Pokhara, Nepal - This panorama was made out of 4 pictures taken in horizontal position with a Canon Powershot G10 - F-stop: f/4 - speed 1/500s - ISO 80 - Software: Adobe Photoshop CS3
The technique of “photo stitching” has been around a while, and was used even in traditional or analogue photography, albeit in a crude way. In the past, photos were stitched together using transparent tape. Today, in the digital world, computers do the work, but the idea is still the same. The technique consists of taking several overlapping pictures and editing them with computer software (known as post processing) to obtain a single panorama covering up to 360 degrees. Some compact cameras have an integrated feature which achieves the same effect without the need for post-processing. But in order to achieve the highest quality, you often need to do it yourself.
Settings and environment
Always remember to overlap every picture by a reasonable amount, typically about 25% each side of the image.
It’s important to keep in mind that when taking photos with a view to photo stitching, to operate the camera in manual mode. This includes using a fixed focal distance (the sharpest results would be with a prime lens), using a fixed focal point and exposure. Light conditions and distance to the subject can vary greatly when rotating the camera. As a result, using an automatic setting would create visible differences at the borders of each image, making it harder to stitch the individual images together.

Val Sarentino, Italy: in this 360° panoramic work, borders are slightly visible because of a not perfect outdoor shooting - This panorama is made out of 11 photos taken with a Canon Digital Ixus IIs in horizontal position - F-stop: f/7.1 - Speed: variable - Software - Adobe Photoshop CS3
However, relying on the camera’s manual settings is sometimes not enough depending upon the environment and weather. Sunsets and sunrises, or when the sky turns suddenly from cloudy to sunny are typical examples where you need to do a bit more work on the images to produce a seamless panorama.
In terms of composition, before starting to shoot a panorama, it’s a good idea to carry out a test by rotating the camera in a circle without releasing the shutter. By doing this, it is possible to ensure that all elements of the scene will be included when actually shooting the panorama. If elements of the scene are being lost, the solution is to take photos with the camera in a vertical position. This results in a higher number of pictures and proportionally higher surface area where the images overlap. Another approach is to shoot two or more rows of pictures to stitch together.

San Sebastian, Spain: using automatic settings, the exposure is going to be different in each shot, showing the border in consecutive photos - This panorama was made out of 4 pictures taken in horizontal position with a Sony DSC P-73 - F-stop: f/5.6 - variable speed - ISO 100 - Software: Ulead Cool 360°

San Sebastian, Spain: using manual settings in another set of pictures, the same panorama is visible seamless - This panorama was made out of 3 pictures taken in horizontal position with a Sony DSC P-73 - F-stop: f/5.6 - 1/320 - ISO 100 - Software: Ulead Cool 360°
Optical center and parallax error
But around which point should the camera be rotated? The quickest approach would be to spin around on your feet, but this isn’t the smartest way. Technically, the optical centre would be within the lens itself, so rotating the camera around this point would be preferred. Failure to do this would result in what is called a parallax error, i.e. an apparent shift of foreground objects against a background between 2 consecutive shots. This produces a ghost effect of the same object in two consecutive pictures.
Using a tripod
But to do a professional job, you have to use a tripod with brackets and sliders. Ideally you would move the position of the tripod screw to the optical centre of the scene (in the lens) rather than directly below the sensor (which is most common). If you don’t have brackets or sliders, rotating around the standard tripod screw hole is better than just rotating around your feet.
Also remember that the pivot point changes with focal length, focusing distance and aperture, so these settings should be determined every time a change is made.
If despite all the precautions listed above and something still isn’t working out perfectly, success can still be yours by using dedicated software. It is possible to adjust exposure levels, remove ghosting and carry out perspective correction either automatically or manually using most decent post processing applications such as Adobe Photoshop. In order to get the maximum flexibility when post processing, take your pictures in RAW mode if possible.

View from Poon Hill, Himalaya: to don't cut the top of the mountain from the panorama, I decided to give a curved shape to the top border: Be creative! This panorama was made out of 10 pictures taken in vertical position with a Canon Powershot G10 - F-stop: f/3.5 - speed 1/125s - ISO 80 - Software: Adobe Photoshop CS3 - Original lenght: over 20 000 pixels

Jaisalmer Fort, India - This panorama was made out of 3 pictures taken in horizontal position with a Canon Powershot G10 - F-stop: f/8 - speed 4s - ISO 100 - Software: Adobe Photoshop CS3

View of Tromsø, Norway - This panorama was made out of 4 pictures taken in horizontal position with a Pentax K7 - Pentax smc DA 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 AL WR - 32mm - F-stop: f/5 - speed 1/1600s - ISO 100 - Software: Adobe Photoshop CS3 - Tripod: Cullmann Nanomax 250 CW25






















